- Type: Rosaceae
- Flowering Period: June, July, August, September
- Height: 30-300cm
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, vinous
- Perennial
- Winters
- Sun loving
- Loving
Lovers of rosaries often complain that in the conditions of our winter it is not possible to save purchased varietal bushes without damage. And sometimes they freeze completely. The variety itself, which is not designed for such conditions and is not adapted to the harsh climate, is to blame. Although more often mistakes are made by hostesses who did not think of how to cover roses for the winter, taking into account the variety, and as a result, some bushes froze, while others were drunk from an excess "fur coat".
What varieties are most afraid of frost?
Each variety requires individual wintering conditions, so first of all remember what group of roses the bushes growing on the site belong to.
- Tea hybrid roses and some varieties of climbing are very afraid of frost.
- More persistent are miniature varieties and floribunda. When creating a shelter for them, the main thing is not to overdo it.
- Park roses are the most "seasoned" type of plants. Most of them do not require special shelter at all.
It happens that you have not determined which particular variety grows on your flower garden. In this case, it is worthwhile to provide shelter for roses for the winter, at least in order to protect their root system from excess moisture and create a favorable microclimate for wintering the trunk. The protective “robe” will make temperature changes less noticeable, causing the branches to freeze.
Especially resistant to frost are soil cover varieties. They are recommended to be planted by a novice grower: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/pochvopokrovnye-rozy-v-landshaftnom-dizajne.html
Preparing the rosary for wintering
Stop feeding
It is necessary to start preparing plants for the winter period already from the end of August. This is the time when you must stop the rapid growth of plants, stopping watering and fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. It is only allowed to occasionally sprinkle a little potash top dressing so that the trunk and branches lumber faster.
Do not loosen the ground
With the beginning of September, all kinds of loosening of the soil layer around the bushes are stopped so as not to provoke the growth of young shoots. This will protect the sleeping kidneys from waking, especially if the September temperature resembles summer.
Trimming
A prerequisite for a successful wintering of roses is their pruning. It does not require only climbing and park varieties. The branches should be cut to the height level of the future shelter so that the entire bush can be hidden. Cut out all the greenery (leaves and young shoots), because they can’t stand the frost anyway, and slightly shorten the lignified parts.
We clean the trash
From under each bush, scoop up accumulated debris, such as dry foliage, grass, etc., to avoid fungal diseases, spores of which like to settle in such places.
We process bushes
To strengthen immunity and increase the resistance of the bushes to moisture, spray the roses with iron sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.
We spud every rose
To improve the aeration of the root system, it is necessary to sprinkle roses after spraying, lifting the earth by about 20 cm. In winter, loose soil holds a lot of air, which prevents frost from getting to the roots.
Hilling the bush will create a good aeration, which will become a barrier to frost
What time should work begin?
Having figured out how to prepare roses for the winter, and having done all the necessary procedures, we begin to expect stable colds. It will happen somewhere in the middle of October. Before the term, sheltering roses for the winter is not worth it.
A signal to the beginning of the covering work should be stable minus temperatures (about -6), which will last a week or more. In the southern regions, winter may linger a bit, so wait.
Remember: it’s better to hide the plants a little later than prematurely. Light frost shoots are not afraid. It only tempers roses and accelerates the ripening of branches. But premature shelter will provoke the growth of young shoots and wake up the kidneys, which, of course, is not necessary for the winter. Be sure to keep in mind that when you decide to close roses for the winter, the weather should be dry. If it rains or wet snow before this, wait a couple of days until the soil dries under the bushes, because excess moisture can cause various fungal infections, and in closed mode the plants will quickly catch the disease.
In addition to sheltering roses for winter, you can simultaneously carry out a number of other autumn works in the garden: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/osennie-raboty-v-sadu.html
Types of shelter for different varieties of roses
For any type of shelter that you choose, an indispensable condition for a good winter should be the inner air gap, i.e. the rose and the material should not be in close contact. This will protect the bushes from drying out at the end of winter, when protracted thaws begin. If the shelter too tightly covers the branches, then the normal flow of oxygen is disrupted, and the plant "suffocates".
Air-dry shelter: for hybrid tea varieties and floribunda
Of the many options, gardeners prefer an air-dry shelter that keeps a constant temperature (up to -4?) And is well ventilated. The order of shelter is as follows:
- Of metal rods or wire weave frame 60 cm high.
- We enclose a bush in the form of a cone.
- Over the metal we stretch the insulation. You can cover roses for the winter with lutrasil, glassine, cardboard, etc. We fix the material to the frame with twine.
- We cover the created "house" with polyethylene, which will not let in rainfall and moisture.
- From below, we cover the entire film with soil.
If you cover each rose with spruce branches, then rodents will not flatter on the branches and trunk
Instead of a frame, you can cover the bushes with containers with holes, and after frost, cover with a film
In addition to roses, lutrasil and constructions with it are also covered with conifers: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/zimnyaya-spyachka-xvojnikov.html
Shield Shelter: for climbing roses
Climbing roses remain with leaves longer than other varieties, therefore, from the moment of the onset of stable cold, it is necessary to trim all the foliage along with petioles. Otherwise, they can rot in the winter and pass the infection to the kidneys.
The order of work is as follows:
- We connect the prepared bush with a bunch and bend it in the direction where the branches stretch.
- We spread lapnik on the ground (it will protect the lashes from rodents) and lay the bush on top.
- We pin it in several places with a bent wire to press it to the ground.
- We knock down 2 wooden shields: length = length of the bush, width - about 85 cm.
- We put shields in the form of a house over the bush, and in order not to go round, we reinforce with pegs, driving them into the ground.
- We cover the house with polyethylene, completely covering the ends and filling the film from all sides with soil. (If the ground under the bush has not yet frozen, then lift the film at the ends, and close it after stable cold weather).
- If the winter turns out to be warm, then the corners of the ends are slightly opened to establish ventilation.
The branches are laid on the ground in the direction where they themselves bend. This will prevent cracking of the bark.
If you drive wooden pegs into the ground, they will not let the shields slide down under the weight of snow
Shielding roses protect the climbing roses, growing in rows. But if the bush is located in the center of a flower bed, and other plants winter around, then heavy shields can damage them. In this case, for a climbing rose make the following shelter for the winter:
- The bound lashes are not laid on the ground, but fixed in a column, nailing several pegs next to each other and tying a plant to them.
- A framework pyramid is made of metal and placed around the plant so as to avoid contact with the branches.
- Fiberglass is laid on top, pulled together with twine and sprinkled with soil from below. It will not let frost inside and provide excellent ventilation.
- If there is no fiberglass, stretch a spond or other non-woven fabric, and polyethylene on top (do not forget the ventilation vents, otherwise the bush will sprinkle when warming!).
Jute bags: shelter for the standard rose
Stem bushes planted in tubs should winter in a dry, cold basement. But if the plants are planted in the soil, it is best to cover their crown with a jute bag.
For this:
- Put a bag without a bottom on the crown and tie at the beginning of the crown growth point.
- Dry leaves are poured inside or tamped with spruce branches.
- Knotted bag on top.
- The trunk is covered with burlap.
When the shelter is ready - wish the roses a peaceful winter and a joyful awakening in the spring!
