Majestic flowers, called the Imperial hazel grouse for the variegated petals of buds, in vivo grow in the mountainous regions of Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, India. Mention of the plant is found in documents of the XVI century. Two centuries later, in Holland, monotonous varieties cultivated in temperate latitudes to this day have been selected.
Fritillaria (the biological name for flowers) produce buds in early spring. By mid-summer, plants begin to dormant, like many other bulb crops (tulips, daffodils). Leaves turn yellow, harden, the stem dries up. This is the moment when you can prune Grouse after flowering.
Each stem of the Imperial hazel grouse issues from 3 to 7 bells
Blooming "palm trees" are yellow, white, orange, raspberry color with a checkerboard pattern.
Fading stems look unaesthetically, but it is strictly forbidden to break them out or twist them, delicate bulbs can be damaged. Those who plant hazel grouse flowers when digging up plants, decides for himself. When “babies” are needed, it is better not to disturb the flowers for two or three years, so that the new bulbs grow to medium size. Flowering in this case can not wait. Fritillaria will release a pipe, fluff the leaves, but there will be no buds on the crown.
Important! Decreased yellowing foliage is a sign that the time has come when they dig the bulbs of the Imperial grouse. Digging is optional, but desirable.
A few reasons why it’s better to dig up fritillaria:
- For a full bookmark of flowers, the plant needs to create natural conditions. In the middle of summer in the East, there comes a period of drought, heat. It is noticed that after the onions are kept in a warm room, the number of buds on the Emperor grouse increases;
- with seed propagation of buds will have to wait 7 years. Parts of the onions with the remains of the bottom bloom in the second year. Bulb division is the best way to breed flowers;
- by the way, large heads with a diameter of more than 8 mm are cut into 4 parts so that on each lobule there remains a piece of the bottom from which the roots sprout;
- like all bulb crops, grouse every year rhizome sags deeper into the ground. The sprout sprouts longer, the risk of decay increases. On dry, loose soil, plants are able to produce a peduncle annually without transplantation. Small-bulbous varieties are more resistant to weather conditions of temperate latitudes, they can not be disturbed until three years;
- enrichment of the soil with nutrients. For plants, it is not necessary to look for a new place every year, it is enough to introduce complex fertilizers, ash, lime on an existing plantation. Then the numerous buds of hazel grouse will delight next spring.
Important! If rotten heads are found during excavation, it is better to change the landing site. Grouse grows well after gourds, cauliflower, greens.
- protection of the corners against insects. They do not have a hard peel, a strong smell scares off rodents, but does not prevent the larvae of the bear, sawfly and other insects from enjoying the juicy flesh;
- prevention of rot. Especially often large-bulb varieties are affected. Subtropical giants get less sick after summer drying. When the hazel grouse is dug up in the summer, the bulbs practically do not rot.
Important! Young annual bulbs are easily damaged when removed. When to dig hazel grouse after flowering? - Gardeners prefer to do this annually, it is advisable to sift the soil so that there are no plant debris that can rot.
The main thing is to determine the desired period for digging the bulbs. In open ground, fritillaria are often placed next to the rest of the flowering perennials.
Grouse faded, what to do next with them:
- it is permissible to cut a yellowing stem, leaving a stump up to 5 cm high above ground level;
- if the yellowing foliage is not annoying, you can leave the faded hazel grouse before digging, but it is better to remove the peduncles.
Fritillaria, dug with a stalk, are left to dry in a ventilated container. To do this, it is better to use mesh containers.
The main nuances of the correct cleaning of hazel grouse:
- instead of a shovel, it is more convenient to use a pitchfork, they raise the top layer of the soil, loosen it;
- retreat from the stem by 15 cm, varietal cornel bulbs grow large;
- after removing the large bulbs, they carefully dig everything up with a deep scoop in search of "children";
- after loosening the earth, the bulb is removed from the lower part of the stem;
- dissected bulbs are not discarded if part of the bottom is preserved, the damaged part is stored after processing with the rest of the planting material (such a hazel grouse can bloom in a year, but the sprout should appear next spring);
- dug plants are left on a bed under the sun to dry the earth well, ultraviolet light has destroyed putrefactive bacteria;
- bulbs are easier to extract from dry, crumbling earth, because in a wet "kids" will be invisible.
Important! Grouse flakes are very fragile, with careless handling, pressure breaks. They should not be thrown away, it is better to put them in storage. If a root appeared from the scale, it will grow back, gradually recover to the whole.
Grouse bulbs are "fried" in the sun for 3-4 hours, not more. With prolonged exposure to light, they fade.
The stem or the remaining crop is removed from the head one week after digging, when the roots are completely dry. A deep fossa forms in the head. This is normal. This is the unique feature of the Imperial hazel grouse from all other bulbous plants.
Following actions:
- manual removal of dry films, lumps of earth;
- washing grouse: they are briefly soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, rinsed, drained dirty liquid;
- examination of the bulbs: rotten, damaged, set aside separately for subsequent processing;
- sorting of planting material by size (only large bulbs bloom, small ones and seeds for storage are folded separately).
It is enough to wash healthy onions in a solution of manganese. The rotten parts of the scales are cut with a knife. The blade is pre-wiped with hydrogen peroxide or chlorhexidine. The section and areas damaged during digging are sprinkled with crushed tablets of activated carbon. If there is no coal, it is recommended to use pharmacy antiseptics available in any home medicine cabinet:
- iodine solution;
- zelenka.
Important! By the way, instead of potassium permanganate, gardeners often use a solution of biological fungicides: a strong infusion of onion husks and calendula flowers. Putrid fungi and bacteria die after an hour of exposure.
Gardeners begin to process the bulbs after removing the stem. Immediately after digging the plants, you should not wet
When grouse fades, what to do next is described in the previous part of the article. Now it is worthwhile to dwell on the timing of cleaning. Some advise: "I chose a day without rain - and for work!". Light rain is not a hindrance if the ground is dry. It is better when there were no precipitation and thick fogs about three days before the digging.
It is good when the earth does not stick to the heads of plants. Small young bulbs are better visible in the soil, the risk of damage to large heads is reduced.
Yellowing foliage is not always a sign of a hazel grouse retiring. Leaves turn yellow, fade:
- with lesion of fusarium;
- infection with a leaf nematode (small sucking insects).
Grouse needs to be cleaned at the same time as tulips. This is approximately the middle of July. Those who constantly grow hazel grouse know by flower when to dig up the plant. Beginners are recommended to dig up the last flower, see if the roots dry out. If they die, become brittle, it is time to dig up the bulbs.
Important! By the way, you do not need to wait until the stem dries completely. If chlorophyll does not form in the leaf blades, a yellow pigment appears, the plant prepares for rest.
It is not worthwhile to procrastinate with digging up, especially if rains are charged or there is a sharp contrast of night and day temperatures. Under such weather conditions, dormant bulbs in the soil are most vulnerable, and rot quickly develops on the scales. The deadline for extracting flower heads from the ground is mid-August.
Bulbs dug in dry weather are easy to clean. Films, scales are well visible on it. Sandy soil is brushed off with a brush.
The storage location is selected according to several criteria:
- low humidity (no more than 65%);
- lack of direct sunlight (diffused lighting is allowed, since the bulbs are completely covered with mulch or peat);
- temperature from + 25 ° С to + 30 ° С.
The natural conditions of the subtropical August are created for the roots, so that the grouse fully rests, laid flower buds for next spring. The number of inflorescences directly depends on the storage method. At home, the bulbs are not placed due to the persistent pungent odor.
Before the autumn planting, planting material is cleaned in a ventilated place where the air warms up to the desired mark on the thermometer. An attic, or a subceiling part of a barn of another outbuilding, is considered an ideal option.
Bulbs will have to be stored until September, during which time sprouts, white roots should appear on them. During storage of planting material in a new place, it is periodically checked. They look to see if rot has appeared at the places of stripping. Particular attention is paid to damaged bulbs and flakes left for planting. Planting material is covered in unexpected frosts.
Important! Onions with or without a damaged bottom during storage sometimes form the rudiments of “children”. They can not be separated before planting, leave to root. But there will be no buds from such planting material.
By the end of storage, a sprout is visible from each head, and up to four shoots grow from large bulbs. The roots stretch quickly only with high humidity.
To place the heads choose:
- cardboard boxes from shoes that are easy to open;
- rigid mesh containers (fruit crates);
- boxes with perforated walls.
"Children" are stored separately, they are planted in remote areas, they will need several years for growth. Imperial grouse for full bloom should grow up to 7 cm in diameter.
By the way, small-onion varieties are dug up and stored separately so that there is no confusion during the planting period.
Important! The heads are laid out so that they do not touch each other. Instead of peat or dry mulch (sprinkled straw or dry grass), some gardeners use parchment paper or old newspapers, wrap each bulb separately.
All planting material that could be saved should be planted at the very beginning of autumn. When the hazel grouse needs to be planted in a new place, select shaded areas protected from the wind. With a high occurrence of groundwater in flooded areas, drainage is necessary. Pre-prepared landing layers of soil. Sand is used as a baking powder; it is introduced up to ¼ volume into the soil mixture. The earth is filled with humus, fertilizers.
The depth of the landing beam should be 2-2.5 times greater than the size of the bulb. At the bottom of the landing fossa, a drainage layer of sand is preliminarily laid, it will be easier to remove hazel grouse with it.
By the way, for the prevention of root rot, the soil is nursed with Fitosporin. This biological fungicide is a spore of fungi that develop on pathogenic bacteria. Mycelia are antagonists of fungal infections and prevent them from developing.
When too large nuts have grown on the bulb, they are laid out carefully so as not to break. Grouse has no time to restore the root system before wintering
The distance between large bulbs is from 20 to 30 cm, "children" can be planted in a checkerboard pattern after 5 cm.
Important! Plantings (especially shallow ones with "kids") are covered with spruce branches or bare branches, covered with a thick layer of dry humus, peat, straw. Make snow retention barriers on the leeward side.
Thus, it is profitable to grow your own planting material, because varietal bulbs are not cheap. Grouse Imeratorsky is one of the most beautiful spring flowering plants. This perennial pleases with bright buds, while all other plants are only gaining strength.
